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Build a 2,000W Portable Generator (Battery Power Station) — GamerzCrave
DIY POWER 2,000W

Build a 2,000W Portable Generator (Battery Power Station)

Quiet. Safe. Pure sine. No fumes. A modular LiFePO₄ build that actually slaps.

What You’re Building

Output: 120V AC 2,000W continuous 24V LiFePO₄ ~2.56 kWh pack AC charge + solar-ready

Runtime ballpark: 2.56 kWh ÷ 2.0 kW ≈ ~1.2 hours at full load (longer at partial loads).

Safety First

  • No backfeeding houses. Use only the inverter’s outlets or a transfer switch installed by a pro.
  • Fuse near battery. Class-T (150–200A) within 8–10 inches of the positive post.
  • Cable gauge matters. 2,000W at 24V ≈ 83A DC. Use 2 AWG copper for short runs.
  • Ventilation, strain relief, correct torque. If unsure, consult an electrician.

Parts (Core)

  • 24V 100Ah LiFePO₄ battery (BMS built-in)
  • 24V→120V pure-sine inverter/charger (2,000W continuous)
  • Class-T fuse + holder (150–200A)
  • DC breaker (125–150A)
  • Battery monitor (shunt type, ≥200A) + display
  • Bus bars (250–300A) — optional but tidy

Parts (Wiring + Case)

  • 2 AWG OFC red/black, ring lugs, heat-shrink
  • AC inlet (NEMA 5-15 male) + weather cover
  • AC duplex outlet + box/faceplate
  • Strain-relief cable glands
  • 24→12V buck (optional), USB-C PD module
  • 12V case fans + grills, vent mesh
  • Wheeled equipment case, mounts, hardware

Layout Snapshot

[ Vent  ]  [ Inverter/Charger ]  -> AC OUT → [ Duplex ]
   ^fan         |  DC +/-
                v
         [ Breaker ]--[ Class-T Fuse ]--( + Batt )
                           |
                        [ Bus+ ]      [ Bus- ]--[ Shunt ]--( - Batt )

Build Steps

  1. Dry-fit: Place components, mark holes for fans, AC inlet/outlet, cable glands.
  2. Cut & mount: Drill cutouts, deburr, install grills/glands with gaskets.
  3. Mount inverter: Elevate for airflow; exhaust aimed at a vent.
  4. Battery & protection: Strap battery. +Batt → Class-T → Breaker → Bus+; −Batt → Shunt → Bus−.
  5. Crimp 2 AWG: Proper die, full compression, heat-shrink, labels. Keep DC runs short.
  6. Battery monitor: All negative current flows through the shunt; run display cable to top panel.
  7. AC wiring: AC IN (wall) → inlet → inverter AC IN. AC OUT → duplex outlet. Use 14 AWG stranded + strain relief.
  8. 12V rail (optional): 24→12V buck off Bus+/− via 5–15A fuse for USB-C, fans, LEDs.
  9. Airflow: Intake low, exhaust high; finger guards and dust mesh on intakes.
  10. Program inverter: Battery type LiFePO₄; Absorb ~28.4–28.8V; Float ~27.0–27.2V; LVC ~22–22.4V; charge ≤0.5C.
  11. Pre-power checks: Breaker OFF. Meter for shorts Bus+↔Bus−. Confirm polarity at inverter posts.
  12. First power-up: Breaker ON → inverter ON. Verify idle draw, then plug wall AC to charge.
  13. Load test: Start 40–100W; step to 300–500W; briefly approach 2,000W. Watch temps/voltage.
  14. Tidy & label: Dress wires, edge trim, labels: AC IN (Charge) / AC OUT (Use) / Breaker.

Operating Tips

  • Best efficiency at 20–60% load; avoid living at 2kW nonstop.
  • Store at 50–70% SOC; cool, dry. Top up every 2–3 months.
  • Solar add-on: 24V MPPT (≥60A) fused to Bus+/−.

Don’t Do This

  • No backfeeding into a home panel or wall outlets.
  • No undersized wire or loose lugs (heat = danger).
  • No wet use. Keep it dry and upright.

Specs Cheat Sheet

  • 2,000W @ 120V ≈ 16.7A AC
  • 2,000W @ 24V ≈ ~83A DC (+ inverter losses)
  • 2 AWG copper DC runs; Class-T 150–200A near battery; 125–150A DC breaker
Educational guide using listed components. If unsure, hire a pro.
© GamerzCrave — Built with brains, not fumes.
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